Overview
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The Palio di Siena is more than just a horse race in Tuscany, Italy; it is a unique cultural phenomenon. The races are held twice a year, on July 2 and August 16, in the city of Siena. This bareback horse race lasts just minutes but the stakes are unbelievably high. In essence, the race is a contest between different districts of Siena called “contrade.” Each district has their own jockey and a horse assigned at random. Siena has a population of just 60,000 yet there are a total of 17 contrade yet only 10 compete in any given Palio. The race consists of three laps around the city’s main square - the Piazza del Campo – and often takes less than 2 minutes.
“Palio” the Definition
The world “palio” derived from the Latin word “pallium” actually means “banner.” The winner of each race is given a silk banner which proudly proudly hangs in the contrada’s church.
Palio History
The Greeks and Romans expertly used sporting events to appease their citizens. Not unlike television today, watching violent games gave the masses an emotional outlet, often avoiding bloody revolts or revolution. This tradition of games and contests continued in Roman Italy and later in medieval Italy. The modern-day Palio began as a 13th century religious procession to the Duomo cathedral. The “offering of the candle” procession was held on August 15, the feast of the Assumption. Following the solemn procession, horse races were held between the Duomo and city gates. As Siena grew in wealth and power, so too did the event drawing spectators from throughout the Italian peninsula and abroad. Ambassadors and high-ranking nobles often traveled with their own retinue of minstrels who then joined the procession. Ordinary citizens were banned from the August procession so the city organized games in the much large Piazza del Campo. Siena’s central square saw donkey races, traditional jousting and bullfights. Siena is divided among three hills or terzi. A fighting contest between these districts developed called the pugna. It wasa free-for-all boxing match between teams from competing terzi and became so violent and divisive that it was eventually discontinued. The terzi were later sub-divided into contrade with each district having its own standard and colors. In 1555, Siena fell under Florentine control. The city’s new administrators banned the offering of the candle procession but allowed Siena’s districts to co-organize games on August 15. In 1650, the contrade eventually gained control over their own horse race held in the central square. The people’s Palio became two races: a July 2nd race dedicated to the Madonna de Provenzano; and an August 16th race dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
Palio Days
The races are the culmination of an entire year’s efforts. Each contrade has raised money and elected a captain. Once elected, the captain is responsible for hiring a jockey and, most importantly, negotiating alliances with other districts. These secret alliances often involve money although it is difficult to determine their effectiveness come race day. While districts are free to hire their own jockeys, horses are selected by lottery 4 days before the race. Each district hosts an outdoor dinner the night before Palio (on July 1 and August 15). These spectacular events are full of wine, food and song although everyone is thinking about the race. The district’s captain, jockey and various dignitaries often eat at a table of honor.
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