www.palio-siena.com offers readers their tips, recommendations and travel advice for seeing Siena, an ideal base for Tuscany in Italy.
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FROM PASTA TO PALAZZOS
In Siena we bought tickets to the Duomo and its various sections; not only was this great value for money at about €10/US13.50, the ticket lasted for three days, allowing more time to enjoy each part of the huge church.
When facing the facade of the Duomo, tourists are somewhat unaware of the treasures they are leaning against, in the form of the Santa Maria della Scala. This old hospital, which only closed its doors in the Nineties, was spectacular. The staff were very accommodating and happy to tell stories about the building and its former inhabitants. The somewhat eerie Oratory and living quarters of St Catherine were particularly stunning, as was the Church of Santissima Annunziata, which was jaw-droppingly beautiful.
When facing the facade of the Duomo, tourists are somewhat unaware of the treasures they are leaning against, in the form of the Santa Maria della Scala. This old hospital, which only closed its doors in the Nineties, was spectacular. The staff were very accommodating and happy to tell stories about the building and its former inhabitants. The somewhat eerie Oratory and living quarters of St Catherine were particularly stunning, as was the Church of Santissima Annunziata, which was jaw-droppingly beautiful.
PARK AND RIDE
Siena is the best base for staying in Tuscany, the [peripheral] car parks and streets are more “car friendly”, with no real worry about minor traffic transgressions, at least compared with Florence. Siena has the air of a working town, with reasonably priced restaurants and cafés, except for those on the Campo, where you expect to pay a premium. Florence is a short train ride away and can be visited for your cultural fix, then back to reality in the evenings. A good website that gives details of the Palio and other events is www.turismo.intoscana.it; the site is also handy for booking the Uffizi and sites in Rome at a discount.
Siena is the best base for staying in Tuscany, the [peripheral] car parks and streets are more “car friendly”, with no real worry about minor traffic transgressions, at least compared with Florence. Siena has the air of a working town, with reasonably priced restaurants and cafés, except for those on the Campo, where you expect to pay a premium. Florence is a short train ride away and can be visited for your cultural fix, then back to reality in the evenings. A good website that gives details of the Palio and other events is www.turismo.intoscana.it; the site is also handy for booking the Uffizi and sites in Rome at a discount.
SECRET SIGHT
Because you need to join a tour, hardly anyone sees some of Siena’s most interesting art and archives, namely the city’s records (rows of ancient vellum and manuscripts dating back hundreds of years) and the accounts and other documents (the biccherne) whose covers were painted by some of the foremost artists of their day. They’re utterly fascinating and kept on the upper floors of the Palazzo Piccolomini on Banchi di Sotto. Tours are informal (and on our tour we were basically left to look around on our own) and usually run weekday mornings at 9.30, 10.30 and 11.30. You also get to see some little-seen views of the Campo from the palace windows.
Because you need to join a tour, hardly anyone sees some of Siena’s most interesting art and archives, namely the city’s records (rows of ancient vellum and manuscripts dating back hundreds of years) and the accounts and other documents (the biccherne) whose covers were painted by some of the foremost artists of their day. They’re utterly fascinating and kept on the upper floors of the Palazzo Piccolomini on Banchi di Sotto. Tours are informal (and on our tour we were basically left to look around on our own) and usually run weekday mornings at 9.30, 10.30 and 11.30. You also get to see some little-seen views of the Campo from the palace windows.
FOOD SHOPS
Siena has two outstanding foodshops, barely a minute’s walk apart, on Via di Città, the city’s main street: one is Manganelli (at 71-73), in business since 1879, with a superb selection of pretty much every Tuscan (mostly dried) foodstuff, from oil and honey to herbs and truffles; and Pizzicheria de Miccoli (at 93-95), a pretty shop full of pecorino (sheep’s) cheeses, salami and hams hanging from the ceiling.
Siena has two outstanding foodshops, barely a minute’s walk apart, on Via di Città, the city’s main street: one is Manganelli (at 71-73), in business since 1879, with a superb selection of pretty much every Tuscan (mostly dried) foodstuff, from oil and honey to herbs and truffles; and Pizzicheria de Miccoli (at 93-95), a pretty shop full of pecorino (sheep’s) cheeses, salami and hams hanging from the ceiling.
SURE FOOTED
Much of the town’s central area is pedestrianised. Consequently (women especially take heed) you will need footwear that can cope with precipitous slopes and multiple steps. Forget wobbly wedges and flapping flip-flops. I noticed that even the most chic locals wore shoes with which to negotiate the terrain.
For respite from the tourist throng, take your footwear to the Botanical Gardens, on a sunny hillside overlooking the countryside. There are woodland areas, ponds, hothouses and places to sit and admire the Tuscan scenery.
Much of the town’s central area is pedestrianised. Consequently (women especially take heed) you will need footwear that can cope with precipitous slopes and multiple steps. Forget wobbly wedges and flapping flip-flops. I noticed that even the most chic locals wore shoes with which to negotiate the terrain.
For respite from the tourist throng, take your footwear to the Botanical Gardens, on a sunny hillside overlooking the countryside. There are woodland areas, ponds, hothouses and places to sit and admire the Tuscan scenery.
JUST THE TICKET
We found Siena to be more worthwhile than Florence. The office outside the Duomo promoted an expensive combined ticket. On request, a much cheaper ticket was available if you wish to visit only the cathedral.
We found Siena to be more worthwhile than Florence. The office outside the Duomo promoted an expensive combined ticket. On request, a much cheaper ticket was available if you wish to visit only the cathedral.
WALK AND TALK LIKE THE LOCALS
Six months spent living off the Campo left me with vivid memories of a very closed society of rival contrade, each with designated areas and flags, which emerged every evening for the ritual stroll, the passeggiata, when rivals could be evaluated by their designer dress sense. Take the walk and enjoy superb ice cream from the local family firm of Nannini, and you might settle into the very traditional and ritualistic way of the Sienese. Ask for “un cappuccio” (yes, that’s the way to ask!) before midday and you’ll be on your way to sounding like a local. Cappuccino is a morning drink, preferably with a pastry dunked in it; locals would never drink one after noon.
Six months spent living off the Campo left me with vivid memories of a very closed society of rival contrade, each with designated areas and flags, which emerged every evening for the ritual stroll, the passeggiata, when rivals could be evaluated by their designer dress sense. Take the walk and enjoy superb ice cream from the local family firm of Nannini, and you might settle into the very traditional and ritualistic way of the Sienese. Ask for “un cappuccio” (yes, that’s the way to ask!) before midday and you’ll be on your way to sounding like a local. Cappuccino is a morning drink, preferably with a pastry dunked in it; locals would never drink one after noon.
ON THE BUSES
We travelled by train from Florence to Siena. From the railway station you have a long walk to the gate in the town walls and an equally long walk and hill climb to the town centre. You almost end up back at the station but a couple of hundred feet higher. Instead buy a bus ticket from the local tobacconist/general store and take the circular bus from outside the station. This takes you on an excellent tour of Siena lasting about an hour for a couple of euros each.
We travelled by train from Florence to Siena. From the railway station you have a long walk to the gate in the town walls and an equally long walk and hill climb to the town centre. You almost end up back at the station but a couple of hundred feet higher. Instead buy a bus ticket from the local tobacconist/general store and take the circular bus from outside the station. This takes you on an excellent tour of Siena lasting about an hour for a couple of euros each.
TWO CHURCHES
The Duomo – yes, you have to see it – note that you buy tickets at the Museo dell’Opera in the far right of the cathedral square (and don’t miss the Baptistery, accessed down the steps to its left); but two quieter, outlying churches also worth seeing are Santa Maria dei Servi (wonderful frescoes and lovely views back across town to the old centre), and San Francesco, with less art, perhaps, but peaceful and atmospheric. Also pop into the Oratorio di San Bernardino to its right for a stunning fresco cycle.
The Duomo – yes, you have to see it – note that you buy tickets at the Museo dell’Opera in the far right of the cathedral square (and don’t miss the Baptistery, accessed down the steps to its left); but two quieter, outlying churches also worth seeing are Santa Maria dei Servi (wonderful frescoes and lovely views back across town to the old centre), and San Francesco, with less art, perhaps, but peaceful and atmospheric. Also pop into the Oratorio di San Bernardino to its right for a stunning fresco cycle.
LOGGE FOR LUNCH
The prettiest place in Siena for lunch is Le Logge (Via del Porrione 33; 0577 48 013; www.osterialelogge.it; closed Sunday), a minute or so from the Campo. Don’t let them fob you off with the upstairs dining room – the downstairs, a former pharmacy, with lovely old wooden furniture and pretty napery, is the place to be. It is relatively pricey, but relaxed and romantic.
SLOW FOOD
The Slow Food movement has a guide, Osterie di Italie, updated annually (and available on Amazon), that has never let us down. It favours and recommends old-style and inexpensive trattorias, preferably with mamma in the kitchen. One of its places in Siena, Il Carraccio (Via del Casato di Sotto 32; 0577 41 165; closed Wednesday), was perfect: tiny and atmospheric, and very local.
The Slow Food movement has a guide, Osterie di Italie, updated annually (and available on Amazon), that has never let us down. It favours and recommends old-style and inexpensive trattorias, preferably with mamma in the kitchen. One of its places in Siena, Il Carraccio (Via del Casato di Sotto 32; 0577 41 165; closed Wednesday), was perfect: tiny and atmospheric, and very local.
What to avoid
DITCH THE CAR
Siena’s streets are mostly pedestrian only, so don’t drive, not even to the outskirts where you may eventually find parking but it’s a long walk to the centre. Go by train and take a bus or taxi up from the station.
Siena’s streets are mostly pedestrian only, so don’t drive, not even to the outskirts where you may eventually find parking but it’s a long walk to the centre. Go by train and take a bus or taxi up from the station.
FOOD VERSUS VIEW
It’s a tough one: on one hand, the restaurants around Campo are expensive and the food (pizzas, usually) pretty poor, but on the other you can enjoy one of Europe’s great city views. I would avoid it, though if you must eat or drink here, Bar Il Palio is probably the best of the bunch.
It’s a tough one: on one hand, the restaurants around Campo are expensive and the food (pizzas, usually) pretty poor, but on the other you can enjoy one of Europe’s great city views. I would avoid it, though if you must eat or drink here, Bar Il Palio is probably the best of the bunch.
BEST TO BOOK
Avoid turning up in Siena at any time hoping to find a hotel room on spec: it’s busy year-round. To book, or for help if you’re in town and stuck, use the city’s official accommodation agency, Siena Hotels Promotion (www.hotelsiena.com); or visit its kiosk in person opposite the San Domenico church.
Avoid turning up in Siena at any time hoping to find a hotel room on spec: it’s busy year-round. To book, or for help if you’re in town and stuck, use the city’s official accommodation agency, Siena Hotels Promotion (www.hotelsiena.com); or visit its kiosk in person opposite the San Domenico church.
CROWDS LIKE NO OTHER
Unless you have tickets for balconies (try www.palio-siena.com for these), or are very resilient, avoid Palio days and the days near race-day. You’ve not seen crowds until you’ve seen Palio crowds, and if you’re in the Campo with the locals, as we found out, you’re wedged in place, with no shade and no escape (forget loo breaks) for literally hours.
Unless you have tickets for balconies (try www.palio-siena.com for these), or are very resilient, avoid Palio days and the days near race-day. You’ve not seen crowds until you’ve seen Palio crowds, and if you’re in the Campo with the locals, as we found out, you’re wedged in place, with no shade and no escape (forget loo breaks) for literally hours.
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